On dark days, some people turn to matzah ball soup, and others to borscht. Me? I dream of a tangy, hearty Ashkenazi soup that’s been overlooked for too long, and proves that pickles are the hero of any Jewish kitchen.
Pickle soup is characterized by its namesake: the addition of pickled vegetables. In Russian, Polish and Ukrainian cuisine, dill pickle soup (known as Zupa ogórkowa in Polish and Rassolnik in Russian), is a common vegetarian soup made of brine-cured pickles, vegetables and the addition of cream or sour cream (in my case, whole milk yogurt).
Pickling has long been a staple culinary practice across cultures, especially in places with cold winters and harsh climates — it is a way to preserve the bounty from a short harvest to last into the winter months. Not only were pickled vegetables used to get vital nutrients, but also to increase palatability of otherwise bland meals. While some cultures use vinegar to preserve and prevent the growth of harmful bacteria, true “Jewish” pickles of Eastern Europe relied on lacto-fermentation, and the combination of salt, temperature and time to achieve its distinctive taste and tang.
Perhaps this is the origin story of pickle soup, or perhaps it is the addictive combination of sweet, salty and slightly sour broth that makes this soup so special.
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My family tree largely spans Ukraine, Romania and Poland, and my great-grandparents and grandparents eventually settled in the Canadian Prairies and Midwestern United States in the early 1900s. Our family meals were influenced by the harsh Canadian winters and relatively short growing seasons, meaning pickles were always on the menu. I’m not sure if it is coincidence, by migration or climate, but dill pickle soup is a popular wintry dish in the Canadian Prairies, even outside of the Eastern European Jewish community. It’s easy to see why: I love the combination of salty, tangy pickle brine, mellowed out with the addition of yogurt or sour cream in this hearty, vegetable-packed soup.
Notes:
- This recipe uses a salt-brined pickle that you find in the refrigerated section of the grocery store, not the vinegar-based pickles you’ll find on the shelf. Pickles in vinegar will yield an unpleasantly sharp, sour soup, whereas the brined pickles will lend the right blend of salty, dill-y flavor.
- I use a full-fat, plain yogurt in this soup. To prevent curdling, add the yogurt to one cup soup in a medium bowl, whisking to combine. Then, slowly pour the mix back into the soup pot while stirring.
- I prefer to add the yogurt before serving; if you plan on freezing the soup, do so without the yogurt in an airtight container for up to six months.
Dill Pickle Soup
Dill pickle soup is a lesser-known but delicious soup found in Eastern European kitchens. Born likely out of necessity in places where cold, harsh winters meant a short growing season, and pickling was needed to preserve foods for not only nutrition but taste, this soup is packed with brined pickles and vegetables for a deliciously tangy soup to warm you up.
- Total Time: 45 minutes
- Yield: Serves 4
Ingredients
- 2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
- 1 medium leek, halved vertically and thinly sliced
- 4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
- 2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped
- 2 stalks celery, chopped
- 2 medium yellow potatoes, cut into ½ inch cubes
- 4 medium sour garlic-dill pickles, chopped (see note)
- 4 cups vegetable broth, low sodium
- ½– ⅔ cup pickle brine, to taste
- ½ cup plain whole milk yogurt or sour cream
- ⅓ cup chopped fresh dill
- salt and pepper, to taste
Instructions
- Heat the olive oil in a medium pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion, and cook for 4-6 minutes, or until it begins to soften.
- Add the leek, garlic, carrots and celery, stirring to combine. Let cook, stirring occasionally for 5-7 minutes, or until the vegetables begin to soften.
- Add the potatoes, chopped pickles, vegetable broth and brine. Bring to a boil, and reduce to simmer, covered for 15-20 minutes, or until the vegetables are fork-tender. Remove from the heat.
- Add the yogurt to a medium, heat-proof bowl. Whisk in 1 cup of the soup broth until well combined, and slowly pour the yogurt mixture into the soup, stirring to combine. Add the dill. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.
Notes
- This recipe uses a salt-brined pickle that you find in the refrigerated section of the grocery store, not the vinegar-based pickles you’ll find on the shelf. Pickles in vinegar will yield an unpleasantly sharp, sour soup, whereas the brined pickles will lend the right blend of salty, dill-y flavor.
- I use a full-fat, plain yogurt in this soup. To prevent curdling, add the yogurt to one cup soup in a medium bowl, whisking to combine. Then, slowly pour the mix back into the soup pot while stirring.
- I prefer to add the yogurt before serving; if you plan on freezing the soup, do so without the yogurt in an airtight container for up to six months.
- Prep Time: 15 minutes
- Cook Time: 30 minutes
- Category: Side Dish
- Method: Soup
- Cuisine: Ashkenazi
I make this soup or a version of it on a regular basis; my version is without “softening” the onion as we are in our 70s and tge stomach is more sensible. Most of tge time I also skip the chopped pickles bur never the pickle broth and dill.
Some of my pickles had gone soft in the fridge, so I added in a bit of sauerkraut as well to amplify the fermented flavors when I didn’t have quite enough pickles to chop and add in. Really enjoyed this soup and would definitely make it again!