A treasured dish in Indian Iraqi cuisine, green curry is a special-occasion favorite with secret variations, traditionally made with lamb and cilantro masala, slow-cooked to perfection and served over basmati rice.
Photo credit Joanna Nissim

This Indian Jewish Meat Curry Is an Easy Holiday Staple

With fall-apart meat and a flavorful sauce, you'll see why my family makes this time and time again.

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When I married my husband, I was introduced to an entirely new and wonderful cuisine. Being an obsessive foodie, of course, it became my mission to learn everything and was excited by the prospect. However, what I didn’t anticipate was that not everyone shared my enthusiasm and every time I asked someone to teach me, often, I was greeted with a very kind, but very firm, “no.” 

It was a very special lady, Aunty Florence, who took me under her wing and shared every recipe, knowing that by passing them down, it was the only way for these recipes to survive. I loved our afternoons together cooking up a storm in her teeny kitchen, which was as clean and tidy as any professional kitchen. We talked about food for hours, and every time I attempted to recreate one of her special dishes, I sent her photos. Whether it was a complete disaster or not, she would tell me how fabulous it was, and I was a “champ.” Little did she know that she was my champ. 

There was one dish which was the holy grail of Indian Iraqi cooking, and everyone had their own secret version of it: green curry. No more information was given, and it became my mission to find out how to make it. It was a speciality from the Bombay community, rather than the Calcutta community where my mother in law and Aunty Florence was from, but loved by everyone and reserved for holidays and special Shabbats. Some also reserved the “green masala” (curry paste) for Pesach, rather than the tomato-based curry that is eaten regularly. I am not sure of the basis for this, as neither curry contains hametz, but it’s one of those traditions that has been adapted over the years for no apparent reason! 

Traditionally, it was made with lamb as the pairing is so good with the cilantro in the masala, but I often make it with beef, cooking it long and slow to ensure that the meat is falling apart and tender by the end. Like most dishes, it is simply served over perfectly cooked basmati rice. 

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Notes: 

  • This dish can be cooked on the stovetop or in the oven at 340°F (or 170°C). If you opt for the oven, be sure to preheat it before Step 1.
  • This freezes beautifully, and is perfect for making in advance. You can also make the curry sauce in advance, and freeze it. On the day before you want to eat it, brown the meat and add the defrosted sauce; it will taste freshly cooked!
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A treasured dish in Indian Iraqi cuisine, green curry is a special-occasion favorite with secret variations, traditionally made with lamb and cilantro masala, slow-cooked to perfection and served over basmati rice.
Photo credit Joanna Nissim

Green Curry

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A treasured dish in Indian Iraqi cuisine, green curry is a special-occasion favorite with secret variations, traditionally made with lamb and cilantro masala, slow-cooked to perfection and served over basmati rice.

  • Total Time: 3 hours 30 minutes
  • Yield: Serves 6

Ingredients

For the curry paste:

  • 2 bunches cilantro
  • 3 cloves garlic
  • 1 knob ginger
  • 1 tsp cumin
  • 1 tsp turmeric
  • 1 tsp ground coriander
  • 1 tsp garam masala
  • 1 green chilli (optional)

 

For the curry:

  • 23 Tbsp neutral oil, for frying
  • 2 onions, finely chopped
  • 1 tsp brown sugar
  • salt and pepper, to taste
  • 1 kg cubed chuck or diced lamb
  • 2 Tbsp tomato paste
  • 1 pint water

Instructions

  1. Optional: Preheat the oven to 340°F (170°C). (You can also cook this dish on the stovetop.)
  2. Start by making the green curry paste: Blend the cilantro, garlic, ginger, powdered spices and the chilli (if using) in a Magimix or with a hand blender. Add a few drops of water if it needs help to blend.
  3. Heat the oil over medium heat in a deep, ovenproof dish. Add the chopped onions to the oil, stirring to avoid them catching. Then add 1 tsp salt and 1 tsp brown sugar, to help the onions to caramelize.
  4. Add the cubed meat, and fry until browned on all sides.  
  5. Add the tomato paste and mix, ensuring everything is coated. Add the green paste and mix again, coating everything. Cook for 5-7 minutes, to cook out the rawness from the ginger, then add the water. 
  6. Turn the heat down to low and simmer for 2-3 hours, until the meat is soft and falls apart easily. (Alternatively, cook in the oven at 340°F for 2 hours.) Either way, check the dish every 30 minutes to ensure it isn’t drying out or catching on the bottom (if it is, add more water).
  7. Serve over steamed basmati rice.
  • Author: Joanna Nissim
  • Prep Time: 30 minutes
  • Cook Time: 3 hours
  • Category: Dinner
  • Method: Roasting
  • Cuisine: Indian

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