What comes to mind when you picture the perfect bowl of matzah ball soup?
As a former Jewish deli owner and longtime from-scratch matzah ball soup maker, my platonic ideal is a version of my grandmother’s: rich golden broth sweetened with carrot coins, served with golf-ball-sized matzah balls that are light and airy, but not too light. There needs to be a hint of heft in the balls themselves, and a heavy dose of herbs throughout the bowl.
I met Sarah Nathan, the founder of Nooish, at a Jewish food gathering when she was still developing the prototype for her instant matzah ball soup. What inspired her to take on such an epic task? “When I was a producer on the The Great Big Jewish Food Fest,” she shares, “I saw how diverse the program was, and I saw how people were connecting to [Jewish] food no matter where they were in the diaspora. I wondered, ‘How can this feeling be replicated anywhere?’”
Nathan was determined to create an instant matzah ball soup that was as good as any homemade bowl, prepared with high-quality ingredients that parents would be proud to serve their children. She was convinced it was possible. I was excited at the prospect, but admittedly dubious. I’ve tried my share of matzah ball soup mixes, and none come close to any scratch-made version. Also, most require you to add eggs and oil to make the batter. It’s efficient, but not instant.
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But it all comes down to taste. Is it possible for an instant soup to avoid the telltale taste of rehydrated vegetables and excessive sodium? Could instant matzah ball soup ever truly rival bubbe’s?
This fall, I was able to find out. Nathan launched Nooish’s instant matzah ball soup this September; two years after conceiving of the idea. The product is currently available for order online, and arrives in eye-catching packaging. The directions are simple: “Pour contents of the packet into the cup with the matzah balls, fill with water and microwave for 2.5 minutes uncovered, and let sit for 1-2 minutes covered (or fill with boiling water, cover, and let it sit for 10 minutes).”
After letting my soup sit for its required time, I opened the lid and was greeted by a waft of pleasant steam. The matzah balls had swelled up and looked invitingly craggly; almost as if they were formed by hand. I took a sip of the broth first, the homey dill flavor hit first, then a hint of onion and garlic, a touch of carroty sweetness; overall, a balanced and well seasoned broth (not too salty!). A dip into the matzah ball came next, it was tender enough to be easily separated by the edge of a spoon, firm enough to not disintegrate into pieces. I took a bite, “How is this possible?” A second bite, the same thought prevailed. I spooned up a thin carrot round, sweet with a pleasant slight chew. This excellent soup made for a warming and satisfying lunch.
Working professionally in food for over a decade, there are few culinary products that surprise me, and this is genuinely one of them. Nooish is onto something. Landing on this level of quality wasn’t instant and Nathan explains: “The broth was the hardest piece. Obviously, the matzah balls took a lot of time and work and I really wanted to get it perfect. The matzah balls are a sponge and they’re going to take whatever flavor in that soup. People have their personal preferences, but for me I wanted to create a broth that felt really right to me… finding the perfect blend of flavors was the most difficult piece.”
At $35.99 for four cups pre-shipping, the price tag is significantly higher than a typical cup of instant soup. Nathan’s response to the question of cost is simple: it’s all about what goes into each cup. She elaborates: “You can feel good about the ingredients. I wanted to be able to develop a clean recipe that doesn’t have that instant soup taste, and be able to create a vegetarian matzah ball soup that anyone would be proud to send someone or feed their children. The quality of ingredients create a lot of depth, especially the Burlap & Barrel spices and Redmond Real Salt.” Also, the soup’s volume leans bowl-sized rather than cup-sized, making it heartier and more filling than traditional smaller-portioned instant soup.
I will always love making a pot of matzah ball soup from scratch, and ultimately I don’t think that can be fully replicated for the mass market, but Nooish’s instant option comes delightfully close. Many of us do not have the time or ability to spend hours in the kitchen, and those on the hunt for the Jewish food they’re missing now have an unexpected solution. Nathan is already garnering success with orders flying in from Hillels, busy parents and Jewish museums around the U.S.; a few months after launching she’s received orders from 39 out of 50 states. Young and old, from coast to coast, there’s a craving for this Ashkenazi comfort food. To have it arrive on your doorstep and materialize on your table in minutes is a wonder.
A bowl of matzah ball soup that’s ready in your pantry whenever you crave it offers a new path towards instant comfort.
